Fine Wine from Germany

Photo credit: Fritz Haag

Overview and History

Germany has a long history of winemaking. The Romans established the country's first vineyards along the banks of the Mosel some 2,000 years ago, and by the third century AD plantings had spread to various other nearby land. During the Middle Ages the monasteries were very influential in the development of wine growing and in the foundation of production of quality wine in Germany.

Germany’s greatest and most planted grape variety, Riesling, is first documented in the Rheingau in the 14^th Century, and shortly thereafter found its way to the Mosel. In 1720, Schloss Johannisberg became the first major vineyard to be planted entirely to this variety. The mid to late 18th Century saw the development of botrytized wines, and by the 19th Century Rhine wines were selling for prices above those of the first-growth Bordeaux.

The German wine industry lost its way a little in quality terms during the 20th Century, where yields were often increased to levels at which quality was severely compromised. However, the greatest German producers, sites and wines were never completely lost, and since the late 20th Century considerable efforts have been made to re-establish Germany’s former glory. 

Germany is one of the most northerly winegrowing areas in the world, and has a cool climate, in which wine growing is made possible by the warming effect which the Gulf Stream has on western Europe. The average spring and summer temperatures are 15-18 degrees, and the bulk of rain falls during the summer. Altogether, these conditions give the grapes a long ripening period and thus wines of fine aromatics and lively acidity, especially whites. The quality and quantity of each vintage depends much on the climatic conditions.

Germany’s original wine law was introduced in 1971 and was exclusively based in ripeness of the grapes. It is worth remembering that this happened at a time when Germany’s northern climate was struggling to ripen grapes, and as such the highest quality grapes were seen as the ones with the highest must weight.  For more details on Germany’s wine laws, see under ‘classification’.

While other grape varieties, such as for example Sylvanner and Spatburgunder, are delicious wines worth seeking out, Germany remains best known for its fabulous Rieslings.

Classification

Germany’s original wine law was introduced in 1971 and was exclusively based in ripeness of the grapes. It is worth remembering that this happened at a time when Germany’s northern climate was struggling to ripen grapes, and as such the highest quality grapes were seen as the once with the highest must weight. Today with the effects of climate change it can perhaps be discussed whether still relevant.

Nevertheless, the law of 1971, was divided in ‘Deutscher Wein’ which was the lowest quality rung on the ladder and where the least ripe grapes would go, and everything else was graded as ‘Qualitatswein’. ‘Qualitatswein’ was then further divided into two categories, the lower level is known as ‘QBA’ (quality wine from a specified region) – the category under which most German wine is sold. And finally, wines made from riper grapes are qualified as ‘Pradikatswein’ (wine with distinction) – the categories of which are Kabinett, Spatlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenbeerenauslese – increasing level of must weight is required. And in 1987 Eiswein was added. The amount of wine produced each year in each of these categories naturally varies with the vintage conditions.

Other wine label terms worth familiarising oneself with, for German wine, include VDP, Grosses Gewachs, and Erstes Gewachs. VDP stands for ‘Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter’ and is a German wine growers association, originally formed in 1910, and which today has many of the country’s most prestigious wine estates as members. Over 200 members were registered in 2015, yet the collective holdings of VDP producers account for only 3.5% of the country’s total vineyard area. VDP stipulates that members must have holdings in the top vineyard sites; produce lower yields and higher must weight than required by the German wine law. Furthermore, environmentally sensible methods must be used, and members labels must carry the VDP symbol, an eagle and grape clusters.

‘Grosses Gewachs’ (GG) is a prestige category, like a grand cru, devised by VDP since 2002, the terminology, however, is not recognised by the German wine law. The Grosses Gewachs style is recognisable in that the wines are relatively full-bodied Trocken wine, and with incredible aromatic complexities. GG wines must be bottled in glass embossed with the special logo – a grape cluster and the numeral 1.

‘Erstes Gewachs’ is a term used in Rheingau and Hessiche-Bergstrasse for dry wines from a small number of designated top sites. The term was introduced in 1990s and wines must be made from classic grape varieties, usually Riesling, and bottles carry the double Romanesque arch insignia. In 1999, Erstes Gewachs was recognised by law in Hessiche Bergstrasse, it was however never recognised by law in Rheingau. To avoid confusion, in 2012, it was agreed that Rheingau members who are members of the VDP decided should use only the VDP/GG classification.

Other terms to be familiar with, but of less importance today, include ‘Hochgewachs’ which was introduced in 1987 for wines which were higher quality than QBA but not as good as Pradikatswein, however, it is little used today. And finally, the terms ‘Classic’ and ‘Selection’ were introduced in 2000 for dry tasting wines (with max 15 g/l residual sugar) and only made from traditional grape varieties, these are however also little used today.

Key Grape Varieties and Styles

Riesling

Riesling is Germany’s leading grape variety, covering almost 25% of the country’s vineyards. On a global scale, Germany produces almost 40% of the world’s Riesling. Riesling is a noble grape variety which is famous for its incredible acidity but also for the unique and intense aromatics which span from varying levels of stone fruit and citrus over floral notes, with spice, minerals and even kerosene. Wines are produced bone dry to lusciously sweet, and with varying levels of body and alcohol, but they always have the same firmly refreshing appeal. 

We have divided German wine styles into three categories, which are Dry, Off-dry, and Sweet:

• Dry: usually includes ‘Grosses Gewachs’ and ‘Erstes Gewachs’ wines, ‘Classic’ and ‘Selection’, and also wines with ‘trocken’ on the label.

• Off-dry: usually includes ‘Kabinett’, ‘Spatlese’, and occasionally ‘Auslese’ wines.

• Sweet: usually includes ‘Beerenauslese’, ‘Trockenbeerenauslese’ (sometimes Auslese), and ‘Eiswein’.

 Trocken

‘Trocken’ is a legally defined term for dry German wines and can be applied in German speaking countries within the EU to any still wine with a maximum of 4g/l residual sugar, or up to 9g/l if the total acidity is less than the residual sugar by no more than 2g/l.

Kabinett:

The lightest style of German Riesling. Made from grapes with sweetness/ripeness level of 67-82 degrees Oechsle at harvest. The style can be dry (Trocken) or off-dry, but is always refreshingly lively, floral, juicy and light bodied. 

Key producers of Kabinett include;

• Egon Muller
• Jos. Prum

Spatlese:

Means 'late harvest'. Made from grapes with ripeness/sweetness level of 76-90 degrees Oechsle at harvest. The style can be dry (Trocken) or off-dry, but usually has a touch more body and texture than Kabinett, yet still with the lively acidity and pretty floral and spicy aromatics.

Key producers of Spatlese include;

• Egon Mulle
• Jos. Prum

Auslese:

Means ‘select harvest’. Made from grapes with ripeness/sweetness level of 83-110 degrees Oechsle at harvest. Grapes are picked individually and some may be affected by noble rot. Auslese is usually made in a sweet and fuller bodied style, but occasionally some producers ferment it to dryness (Trocken). Auslese always has Rieslings characteristically energetic and fresh structure but a bolder concentration of fruit than Kabinett and Spatlese.

Key producers of Auslese include;

• Jos. Prum
• Markus Molitor
• Egon Muller

Beerenauslese:

Means ‘berry select harvest’. Raisinated noble rot grapes with ripeness/sweetness level of 110-128 degrees Oechsle at harvest. This is fully sweet wine and, together with Trockenbeerenauslese, these are much rarer wines than the lighter styles. It usually has incredible complexity and richness yet always with Rieslings characteristically refreshing core. 

Key producers of Beerenauslese include:

• Markus Molitor
• Loosen

Trockebeerenauslese:

Means ‘dry berry select harvest’. The richest and most unctuous style of German Riesling. Made from noble rot raisinated grapes with ripeness/sweetness levels of 150-154 degrees Oechsle at harvest. Grapes are picked individually, once perfect ripeness/dessication has been reached, and this is the rarest style of German Riesling, usually only made in half bottles, and with the most incredible complexity, balance (despite the richness) and length - a wine for meditation!

Key producers of Trockenbeerenausle include;  

• Hermann
• Fritz Haag

Key Regions

There are 13 wine regions in Germany, we focus initially on Mosel and Rheingau but we will add Rheinhessen in the near future:

• Mosel
• Rheingau