What’s New? #12

Good morning Wine Lover

Another great week of What’s New, kicking off with a nice deal on an absolutely classic 2010 Rioja. I was privileged to taste a brilliant 2015 d’Yquem and I noticed we only have a bottle left, so temptation alert. One of our customers was very excited to try a great Penfolds while on holiday and, on return, was delighted to see that we were offering it in the shop.

We have a new wine in the shop in the form of another great value for money unclassified 2016 Saint Estephe, while a very popular Cote Rotie from Rene Rostaing makes a welcome return to our shelves. Finally, we have a last bottle of another fabulous Hermitage, this time Jaboulet’s La Chapelle, an irresistible opportunity.

WHAT’S NEW IN DEALS

For one week only, enjoy La Rioja Alta's legendary Gran Reserva 890 at just £199 per bottle, usually £209. One of Spain's most iconic wines, 890 is produced only in the finest vintages and represents traditional Rioja at its absolute best, combining remarkable complexity and elegance.

La Rioja Alta, Gran Reserva 890, Rioja Alta, 2010

La Rioja Alta is one of the most respected producers in Rioja, having been founded in Haro in 1890 by a group of local growers and businesspeople determined to create wines capable of rivalling the great wines of Bordeaux. Over more than a century, the estate has become one of the leading custodians of traditional Rioja winemaking, combining long ageing regimes with meticulous vineyard selection and extensive bottle maturation before release.

The Gran Reserva 890 is produced only in exceptional vintages. The wine is sourced primarily from old-vine Tempranillo vineyards in Rioja Alta and the 2010 vintage is widely regarded as one of the finest Rioja vintages of the modern era. Recognising the extraordinary quality of the harvest, La Rioja Alta released the wine as Gran Reserva 890 "Selección Especial", an exceptionally rare designation. The resulting wine combines profound concentration with elegance, displaying layers of red and black fruit, cedar, tobacco, spice, leather and balsamic complexity.

What the critics say:

100/100 Tim Atkin MW: “Quite simply one of the greatest Riojas ever made.” (2024)

100/100 Wine Advocate (Luis Gutiérrez): “The finest Gran Reserva 890 produced in modern times.” (2023)

99/100 Vinous (Joaquín Hidalgo): “A masterpiece of traditional Rioja.” (2023)

What we say:

This is a fabulous Rioja and one much loved by our customers. Unfortunately, the price is still robust and edging north, so we thought this would be an opportunity to try it at a slightly reduced price. Yes it’s a temptation, but also a chance to try a great Rioja, so why not?

Average Critic Score: 96/100    Value Score: 95/100

Available now: 6 bottles

Drinking window: 2022 – 2040

Food Pairings: Roast lamb, Iberico pork, game, Manchego, aged hard cheeses

What we’ve been drinking

Ch. D'Yquem, 1st Growth Premier Cru Superieur Classe, Sauternes, 2015

Twice a year a customer and friend makes an offer too good to refuse. Lunch at the wonderful Medlar restaurant in Chelsea where he generously looks after the food and the rather brilliant wines. I’ll only mention the starter wine, served appropriately with a delicious fois gras. Château d'Yquem occupies a unique position within Bordeaux and the wider wine world. Classified as the sole Premier Cru Supérieur in the 1855 Classification, the estate has enjoyed a reputation for producing arguably the world's greatest sweet wine for more than two centuries.

The 2015 vintage is widely regarded as one of the finest Sauternes vintages of the modern era. Ideal conditions for botrytis development produced grapes of exceptional concentration while retaining freshness and aromatic precision. The d'Yquem 2015 displays layers of apricot, pineapple, marmalade, honey and exotic spice, supported by vibrant acidity that prevents any impression of heaviness. Numerous vintages have demonstrated the ability to evolve for many decades, and in exceptional years for over a century. I’ve personally been fortunate enough to taste the 1929 and 1921 and can attest to that view.

What the critics say:

100/100 Jane Anson: “An utterly brilliant Yquem that balances power with precision.” (2024)

100/100 Vinous (Neal Martin): “Pixelated in its precision.” (2023)

100/100 Wine Advocate (William Kelley): “One of the greatest young Yquems I have ever tasted.” (2022)

What we say:

The reviews above are among many more in the range of 97–100 points. Scores are not everything and the proof of the pudding, or wine, is in the taste. The match with the fois gras was extraordinary and I would have been happy to continue, but other treats were to come. Yquem is obviously not cheap, but a cost shared between four or so serious wine lovers would be sufficient for a memorable experience. We have just the one bottle left. I’m just saying.

Average Critic Score: 98/100    Value Score: 94/100

Available now: 1 bottle left

Drinking window: 2020 – 2075

Food Pairings: Foie gras, Roquefort, lobster, tarte tatin, blue cheeses

What you, our customers, have been buying

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet-Shiraz South Australia 2016

One of our customers told me he tasted this wonderful wine while on holiday in the Seychelles – lucky him on both counts. He returned and wanted us to get some for him – no problem. Now Penfolds Bin 389 is one of Australia's most iconic wines and is often referred to as “Baby Grange” because part of the wine is traditionally matured in barrels previously used for Grange.

First produced in 1960 by Max Schubert, Grange’s creator, Bin 389 became instrumental in establishing Penfolds' reputation by combining the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon with the richness and generosity of Shiraz. More than six decades later, it remains one of the great regional blends and the epitome of the Penfolds house style. The outstanding 2016 vintage takes the wine to the next level.

What the critics say:

96/100 James Suckling: “The personality of this warmer-vintage Bin 389 is big, bold and welcoming.” (2018)

94/100 Decanter: “Behind the youthful ruby hue lies a terrific red.” (2019)

92/100 Wine Spectator: “Generous, intense and juicy, with vivid blueberry cobbler and maraschino cherry flavors.” (2020)

What we say:

He loved it sufficiently to order a case. I absolutely agree and in fact it’s one of my go-to Aussie wines whenever I’m a little homesick. Some lovely steak and a glass or two of Bin 389 usually helps to put the world to right. Great quality for the price and highly recommended.

Average Critic Score: 95/100    Value Score: 95/100

Available now: 6 bottles left

Drinking window: 2019 – 2046

Food Pairings: Rib-eye, roast lamb, beef, venison, hard cheeses, barbecue

What’s new in the shop

Ormes de Pez Saint Estephe 2016

Château Ormes de Pez is one of Saint-Estèphe's most dependable properties and has been owned by the Cazes family, proprietors of Château Lynch-Bages, since 1940. While not classified under the 1855 Classification, the estate has earned a strong reputation for consistently delivering wines that outperform their price point. Significant investment in vineyard management and winemaking under the Cazes family has elevated quality substantially over recent decades.

The vineyard is located in Saint-Estèphe on gravel and clay soils typical of the appellation. The 2016 vintage was produced from a blend dominated by Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, supported by smaller proportions of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Ageing took place in French oak barrels, helping to integrate the wine's generous fruit with structure and complexity. The resulting wine displays classic Saint-Estèphe characteristics, including blackcurrant, plum, graphite, cedar and earthy mineral notes supported by firm but approachable tannins.

The 2016 vintage is widely regarded as one of the finest of the modern era. Near-perfect growing conditions produced wines combining concentration, freshness and remarkable balance. At Ormes de Pez, the vintage yielded what many critics consider the finest wine in the estate's history. Nearly a decade after harvest, the wine continues to impress, and recent blind tastings have seen it outperform significantly more expensive Saint-Estèphe neighbours.

What the critics say:

94/100 James Suckling: Suckling highlights dark berry fruit, cedar and sandalwood aromas, praising the wine's density, polished tannins and impressive persistence. (2026)

94/100 Jane Anson: Anson emphasises concentration, graphite character and structural depth, noting a balanced Saint-Estèphe capable of prolonged ageing. (2022)

93/100 Decanter: Decanter highlights juicy fruit, freshness and immediate appeal while noting the wine's authentic Saint-Estèphe character and excellent value.

What we say:

St Estephe produces some outstanding value for money wines through unclassified offerings in 2016 such as the ever popular Chateau Meyney and Phelan Segur. Ormes de Pez is another fabulous value wine and is highly recommended.

Average Critic Score: 93/100    Value Score: 93/100

Available now: 4 bottles left

Drinking window: 2019 – 2052

Food Pairings: Roast lamb, beef rib, venison, game birds, hard cheeses

What’s back in the shop

Rene Rostaing Cote-Rotie La Landonne 2016

We’re always pleased to welcome Rene Rostaing back. René Rostaing is widely regarded as one of the outstanding producers of modern Côte-Rôtie. Through inheritance of parcels from both the Dervieux and Dervieux-Thaize families, he assembled holdings in many of the appellation's greatest sites, including La Landonne. His wines are known for balancing traditional Northern Rhône character with exceptional polish and precision.

La Landonne is one of the most admired lieux-dits on the Côte Brune. Its iron-rich schist and clay soils produce wines of formidable structure, mineral intensity and longevity. Rostaing vinifies the vineyard as 100% Syrah, aged predominantly in large demi-muids with minimal new oak, allowing the terroir to dominate the finished wine. The 2016 vintage delivered a classically proportioned Northern Rhône: fresh, structured and exceptionally balanced.

What the critics say:

97/100 Wine Advocate (Joe Czerwinski): “Subtle notes of baking spices frame hints of tea, olives and raspberries.”

97/100 Decanter – Matt Walls: “Powerful and very well balanced in a structural, chiselled style.”

What we say:

This wine could have been in a few categories in the newsletter. The customers who have bought it love it and come back for more. It also starred in the Australia vs France tasting last week. As a result, it sells out quickly, but we were lucky to source a few more, so grab some while you can.

Average Critic Score: 96/100    Value Score: 95/100

Available now: 5 bottles left

Drinking window: 2018 – 2035

Food Pairings: Côte de boeuf, venison, game birds, lamb, aged hard cheeses

Last bottle

Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle 2015

I’ve been a fan of Jaboulet for some years, a producer founded in 1834 and long associated with some of the region's greatest wines. The estate's flagship wine, Hermitage La Chapelle, achieved legendary status during the twentieth century, particularly through vintages such as 1961, 1978, 1990 and 1991. Following a period of decline during the 1990s and early 2000s, the estate was acquired by the Frey family in 2006. Under the leadership of Caroline Frey, extensive investment in vineyard management, biodynamic farming and winemaking quality restored the estate's reputation. Today, La Chapelle is once again regarded as one of the best wines of Hermitage.

The 2015 Northern Rhône vintage is widely regarded as one of the finest of the modern era. Warm, dry conditions produced wines of exceptional concentration and ripeness while retaining freshness and structure. Across Hermitage, leading producers achieved remarkable balance between richness and precision. For La Chapelle, the vintage delivered a wine that many critics consider the estate's finest release since the celebrated wines of the late twentieth century.

What the critics say:

98/100 Josh Raynolds, Vinous: Raynolds praises the wine's concentration, mineral precision and layered fruit profile, describing a profound Hermitage with remarkable energy and longevity. (2018)

98/100 Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate: Raynolds praises the wine's concentration, mineral precision and layered fruit profile, describing a profound Hermitage with remarkable energy and longevity. (2017)

97/100 James Suckling: Suckling focuses on the wine's balance between power and elegance, noting concentrated fruit, savoury complexity and outstanding persistence. (2018)

What we say:

Hermitage La Chapelle is sourced from a selection of some of the appellation's finest hillside vineyards, including parcels within the celebrated Le Méal, Les Bessards and Rocoules sectors. I’ve tasted the wines back to the magnificent 1961, 1989 and 1990. After a flat period from the mid-1990s to early 2000s, La Chapelle has roared back to form with a brilliant 2009 and 2010 and now the even better 2015. Highly recommended.

Average Critic Score: 97/100    Value Score: 95/100

Available now: Just 1 left

Drinking window: 2025 – 2050

Food Pairings: Roast lamb, venison, beef rib, game dishes, truffle-based cuisine

Cheers and have a fantastic weekend!