The producer
A chateau with ancient history dating back to 1365 and with connections to the French Valois royal family and a Scottish navigator, Georges Smith, who added the “Smith” to the name in the 18th century. But the modern history started in 1990, when Daniel and Florence Cathiard (Daniel, a former Olympian skiing champion) acquired the estate. They fully restored the estate and vineyards, converting the vineyards to organic farming (certified from the 2019 vintage) with some biodynamic practices used as well. They established and on-site barrel cooperage and have, altogether, made every possible effort to be as sustainable an operation as possible.
With Cru Classe de Graves status for the red wine, Smith Haut Lafitte has 55 hectares of vineyards located directly east of Ch Haut-Bailly. The Grand Vin is usually a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The white wine is mainly Sauvignon Blanc, with a touch of Sauvignon Gris and Semillon, and is consistently one of the best white wines in the area.
Daniel and Florence’s daughter, Alice Toubier Cathiard, runs a luxury hotel and spa – Les Sources de Caudalie – which is located in the middle of the vineyards. Other daughter, Mathilde, along with her husband, Thomas, run the skincare range ‘Sources de Caudalie’ which is made from recycled grape seeds and vine cuttings, while also being a member of 1% for the planet.
This is one of the best Bordeaux vineyards to visit – also with a ten-hectare open air museum (the walking trail “Forest of the Senses”) which is dotted with contemporary artworks, mainly by Bordeaux artists – and meanwhile, the Cathiards never lose any focus.
The wine
Fruit for Smith Haut Lafitte’s Grand Vin is sourced from a single vineyard block on a gravel plateau in Pessac Leognan; the average age of the vines is 48 years. The blend varies with vintage conditions but is usually around 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 30% Merlot, and the remainder Cabernet Franc, sometimes also with a touch of Petit Verdot. Grapes are fermented in small wooden vats with soft extraction by manual punching down, and is followed by 15-18 months ageing in barrels, 60% of which are new and produced in the estate’s own cooperage.
Whereas in previous years the oak was more upfront, Smith Haut Lafitte is today increasingly juicy, focused and with a compelling vivacity, complexity, and dense harmony. Although ready to drink relatively young, Smith Haut Lafitte can display enormous aromatic complexity and smoothness if allowed time to age.